TrueNorth StoneCraft Masonry

When installing full-bed brick or stone veneer, it’s essential to follow a proper sequence to ensure both aesthetic appeal and long-term durability. Here’s a step-by-step overview of how we approach this type of project at TrueNorth Stonecraft Masonry.

1. Site Preparation & Scaffolding Setup

Before any masonry work begins, the area must be reasonably level to safely assemble scaffolding. A stable and well-prepped base is crucial for maintaining efficiency and safety throughout the installation.

2. Starter Strip & Moisture Control

We begin by installing a starter strip at the base of the wall—where the framed wall meets the foundation—and above any door or window openings. This helps define the bottom course and supports proper spacing for the air gap behind the veneer.

Next, a house wrap (such as Tyvek or equivalent) is applied over the sheathing and overtop of the starter strip. This layer helps prevent condensation buildup in the cavity from reaching the wood framing. All seams, incidental tears, and window edges are taped to create a continuous moisture barrier.

3. Ventilation & Drainage System

We install weep vents (small openings that allow trapped moisture to escape) in the first course of brick or stone. These are placed approximately every third brick—roughly every two feet—along the base of the wall. Additional weeps are added above all windows and doors. This ventilation is essential, as both brick and stone are porous materials that absorb and release moisture.

The air space behind the veneer also acts as an insulating buffer and air barrier, which contributes to the overall energy efficiency and longevity of the wall system.

4. Laying the Brick or Stone

With the wall prepped and the base courses established, we begin installing the brick or stone in the predetermined pattern and joint style, based on the design plans. Proper jointing not only affects appearance but also plays a role in moisture control and structural integrity.

5. Wall Ties, Structural Anchoring & Steel Lintels

Wall ties are installed progressively to anchor the brick or stone veneer securely to the structural framing behind it. In brickwork, ties are placed every six courses. In stone installations, they are typically installed every 24 inches in height and should align with each stud. These ties provide strength and flexibility, helping the veneer withstand natural expansion, contraction, and shifting.

Above all non-arched openings and doorways, steel lintels are installed to support the weight of the masonry above. For larger spans—such as garage door openings—it’s especially important to use temporary supports (metal or wood bracing) beneath the lintel during installation. This prevents sagging or bowing under the load of the brick or stone. Once the mortar has fully set and cured, these supports can be safely removed, leaving a clean and structurally sound finish.

6. Keystones & Precast Details

Any keystones, sills, or precast concrete elements are installed according to the project specifications. These architectural features add character and definition to the wall, and their precise placement is essential for a clean, professional finish.

✅ Summary

A properly installed full-bed masonry veneer is more than just a beautiful surface—it’s a carefully constructed system designed to breathe, insulate, and endure. From moisture control and ventilation to structural anchoring and finishing details, every step is essential in ensuring your wall performs as well as it looks.

1. What Is Thin Stone Veneer? (And Why It Costs More)

Thin stone veneer—also known as cultured stone, faux stone, or thin veneer—is a lightweight masonry product designed to replicate the look of full-bed stone. It’s available in an incredible range of colours, textures, and patterns, and can be either manufactured or cut from natural stone. This versatility makes it ideal for everything from feature walls and fireplaces to exterior accents and even ceilings.

One of the biggest advantages of thin stone is its flexibility in application—it doesn’t require a foundation and can be installed on virtually any sound surface, indoors or outdoors. This makes it a great choice for renovations and aesthetic upgrades where traditional masonry isn’t practical.

That said, it’s important to understand that installing thin stone is typically more time-consuming and labour-intensive than full-bed masonry. The process demands a higher level of precision, especially in finished or interior spaces, where dust control, layout planning, and material handling require extra care. Cement board must often be installed as a base layer, and cutting both the stone and the board involves more steps and back-and-forth than working with traditional full-bed materials.

Grouting the joints—usually done with a piping bag and detailed tooling—adds another layer of hands-on finishing work that requires time and attention to detail.

So while thin veneer offers a beautiful and adaptable solution, the extra effort involved in installation is reflected in the overall cost. The result, however, is a polished, custom-finished surface that brings long-term value and lasting visual appeal.installed on virtually any structurally sound wall—exterior or interior—and even on ceilings for more ambitious designs.

2. Site Preparation

Preparation varies depending on whether the project is indoors or outdoors:

• Interior Installations:
  The work area must be protected with drop cloths or tarps to prevent dust and debris from spreading. For larger projects, plywood may be laid down to protect finished floors from scaffold legs or ladders.

• Exterior Installations:
  The ground should be reasonably graded to safely support scaffold setup. Accessibility and layout play a role in how efficiently the installation can proceed.

3. Substrate Requirements & Flashing

In most cases, cement board is required as the base surface. This ensures a stable and moisture-resistant substrate for bonding the stone. However, when working over existing concrete block, poured concrete, or other masonry products, thin stone can be installed directly onto the surface—no cement board required.

For exterior installs, a metal flashing is installed at the bottom of the cement board. This protects the base from water damage by directing runoff away from the wall, extending the life of the material behind the veneer.

4. Bonding with Polymer-Modified Mortar

Thin stone requires a polymer-modified mortar—a specialized adhesive blend designed for strong, long-lasting bonds. This mortar is applied to the back of each stone piece and pressed firmly into place, following the predetermined layout.

5. Grouting the Joints

Once all the stone is installed and set, we move on to joint work. Mortar joints are filled using a piping bag, which allows for clean, precise application between stones. We use a standard type of mortar for this step, and the joint colour can be customized depending on the client’s preferences to complement or contrast with the stone.

After grouting, the joints are tooled and brushed for a clean finish.

✅ Summary

Thin stone veneer offers the look of full masonry with greater flexibility and lower structural demands. Whether you're enhancing a fireplace, updating an exterior facade, or adding texture to an accent wall, it’s a versatile and lasting solution that brings character to any space.

(Why They Fail, and How We Fix Them Properly)

If you've started noticing signs of chimney damage—like crumbling bricks or missing mortar—there’s a good chance the issue has been developing for years. Chimneys are one of the most exposed and weather-beaten parts of a home, and unfortunately, many were not built to last.

1. Common Causes of Chimney Failure

The majority of chimneys we repair or rebuild have one thing in common: poor-quality materials, particularly at the top. Most chimneys are built using hollow clay bricks, which may be fine for sheltered wall installations, but they simply don't hold up well to the intense exposure chimneys face. Rain, snow, high winds, and the freeze-thaw cycles of Canadian winters all take their toll—especially when paired with the heat fluctuations from wood stoves or furnace vents.

At the core of most long-term chimney damage is a failing cap. Unless your chimney was built with a solid, poured-in-place concrete cap, there’s a good chance it has a prefab or “cheap” cap. And if that’s the case, it’s not a matter of if it will fail—it’s when. Once that cap starts to let water in, the bricks below begin to absorb moisture and deteriorate from the inside out.

2. The Hidden Damage

One of the trickiest parts of chimney repair is what you can’t see. Even if you're only noticing a few spalled or crumbling bricks a couple of feet from the top, there’s a strong chance the entire structure has been slowly soaking up water for years. In many cases, what looks like a small repair at first glance turns out to be a symptom of deeper, long-term water damage.

For this reason, simply patching the visible damage is often only a temporary fix. If the root cause isn’t addressed—and the chimney isn’t rebuilt with proper materials and a solid, protective cap—new damage is almost certain to appear farther down in the coming seasons.

3. When a Full Rebuild Makes Sense

We always assess each chimney on a case-by-case basis, and we’ll walk you through the most cost-effective solution for your home. In many situations, especially when the structure is already compromised, a full rebuild is the most practical long-term solution.

In a full chimney rebuild, here’s what you can expect:

• Scaffold setup to safely access the chimney

• Disposal bin scheduled for the debris

• Complete removal of all existing brickwork

• Inspection of flue tiles, replacing any damaged sections

• Rebuild using durable materials such as architectural concrete products or natural stone that won’t deteriorate like clay brick

• Proper height and clearance maintained to meet building code and function requirements

• Solid concrete cap poured on-site (scaffold will remain in place for up to two extra days to allow the concrete to set, the forms to be removed, and cleanup to be completed)

We pour our caps the right way—solid and structural—instead of using prefab slabs or shortcuts like mortar-packed centers. It takes a little more time, but it ensures your chimney will last for decades, not just a few winters.

✅ Summary

Chimneys are often “out of sight, out of mind”—until the damage becomes visible. But by that point, water and weather have usually been working against them for years. Whether it’s a careful repair or a complete rebuild, the key is using the right materials and doing it properly—especially at the top. We’re committed to doing just that.

Cracks in your brick or stone wall can sometimes be just cosmetic—but often, they’re a sign of something more serious going on underneath. In many homes, especially here in Canada where our freeze-thaw cycles are intense, cracking can point to foundation movement or deterioration that needs proper attention.

What to Watch For

If you’re seeing step cracks along mortar joints (those zig-zag cracks that follow the brick lines), or spider-web cracking around a certain area, these are often signs of foundation shift or pressure-related movement. This type of cracking isn’t just a surface issue—if left untreated, it can grow worse over time and may affect the structural integrity of the wall. Canadian winters are especially hard on masonry. Water gets into those cracks, freezes, expands, and makes everything worse.

The Right Way to Repair

We believe in doing things the right way—not just the fast way. That starts with addressing the root cause, especially when there’s foundation movement involved.

General Process for Concrete Wall Repairs:

1. Excavation
   If a crack is tied to a deeper foundation issue, we’ll often need to excavate along the affected wall to expose the area fully. This lets us get a clear view of what’s happening and access the entire surface—not just the part you can see from the outside.

2. Crack Preparation
   Once exposed, we open up the crack to ensure it can be properly packed and sealed. Trying to fill a tight hairline from the surface won’t hold—it needs space and depth for bonding.

3. Surface Cleaning
   The area is then washed and cleaned of loose debris, dust, and dirt. A clean surface is crucial for a solid, lasting repair.

4. Stabilization (When Needed)
   For larger cracks where there’s separation, we may use concrete staples—reinforcement bars that help rejoin the two sides of the crack and provide long-term strength.

5. Sealing and Backfilling
   After packing and sealing the crack properly, we backfill the area and compact it carefully to avoid future settlement.

6. Foundation Protection
   Finally, we apply a waterproof tar coating and install a foundation membrane or wrap that extends just above grade. This provides lasting protection against moisture intrusion.

Additional Foundation Types

While poured concrete walls are common in newer homes, many older homes (and some rural or cottage properties) are built on different types of foundations. Two common types we also work with are block foundations and rock wall (rubble stone) foundations. Each one has its own quirks and proper method of repair.

Block Wall Foundation Repairs

What it is:
Block foundations are made of stacked concrete blocks, held together by mortar. They're commonly used in older residential construction and can be strong and durable—when kept dry and stable.

The Issue:
Because block walls are hollow, they’re vulnerable to water infiltration. When water enters through cracked mortar joints, it can pool inside the blocks, leading to bulging, shifting, and cracking.

How We Repair It:

• Excavation of a longer section is often required, since the interconnected nature of block walls means isolated repairs are less effective.

• We punch test holes into the bottom blocks to check for standing water trapped inside. If water is present, we may punch multiple holes to let it drain properly.

• Once drained, we patch all test holes securely.

• Cracked joints are opened up, cleaned, and the entire wall is washed down.

• Any exposed or unsealed wall surfaces are parged (coated with a thin cement layer) for added strength.

• We then tar the wall for waterproofing and recommend installing foundation wrap—especially if a full length of wall has been excavated—for added moisture protection.

Rock Wall Foundation Repairs

What it is:
Often called rubble stone foundations, these are made from stacked, uncut stones set in a lime-based mortar. They’re common in older buildings and century homes and were built more for strength and weight distribution than waterproofing.

The Issue:
Over time, the lime mortar washes away, especially below grade. This leaves the stones loose and vulnerable. Improper excavation can cause parts of the wall to fall apart, especially if the mortar has badly deteriorated.

How We Repair It:

• We begin by excavating only the upper half of the wall depth to avoid collapse.

• Loose dirt and debris is carefully washed and cleaned out, exposing the gaps.

• We then pack the entire area solid with mortar, taking care to fill every void.

• The wall is allowed to cure for several days to regain strength before any further digging.

• Once the top half is cured, we repeat the same process for the lower half.

• After another curing period, the wall is coated in tar for waterproofing.

• A foundation wrap is installed overtop, extending just above grade, to protect from moisture long-term.

Masonry Repairs After Foundation Work

Once the structure is stable and dry, we move on to restoring the wall itself. This may involve:

• Cleaning out deteriorated mortar joints

• Tuck pointing with fresh mortar

• Cutting out and replacing damaged brick or stone

We use masonry saws for precise cuts, but these tools create a lot of dust—so we always wear respirators and PPE to keep the site safe.

Mortar Matching

A big part of any masonry repair is making sure it blends in. We take care to match the existing mortar as closely as possible, but there are a few things that affect the outcome:

• Original pigments and brand of cement

• Source and color of the brick sand

• Natural weathering and exposure

• How much pigment was used in the original mix

Despite these challenges, our goal is simple: by the time we’re done, you shouldn’t be able to tell we were ever there.

When you're replacing windows or doors in a brick or stone home, it’s not just a matter of swapping one frame for another. If any changes to the surrounding masonry are involved—like resizing, relocating, or closing in an opening—it becomes a job that really should be handled by a professional mason.

Why Masonry Matters for Openings

Openings like windows and doors are naturally weaker areas in any wall. The masonry around them needs to be properly supported, sealed, and matched in appearance to maintain both the strength and look of the home. Done incorrectly, these areas can become entry points for moisture, or worse—undermine the structural integrity of the wall.

Common Masonry Adjustments We Handle

• Closing in an existing window or door with brick or stone

• Reducing the size of an opening and infilling the difference

• Widening openings to allow for larger units like patio doors (masonry support required)

• Repairing cracked or deteriorated masonry around windows or doors

• Replacing old lintels or adding new support for expanded openings

Blending these types of changes into an existing wall—especially on older homes—is no small feat. Even when using original brick salvaged from the property, the cleaned bricks often show a white efflorescent glaze once installed. This is common and is usually resolved with an acid wash after the mortar has had time to cure properly.

Sourcing matching bricks—especially those over 20 years old—is rarely straightforward and often not worth the time or cost involved in tracking down. Instead, we’ll:

• Find the closest modern match in the correct size

• Or offer the option to border the opening with a complementary brick for a more intentional, framed-in look

Enlarging Openings: Structural Considerations

When it comes to enlarging an opening—especially anything wider than six feet—it’s not just a matter of cutting out brick and tossing in a wider frame. The existing masonry above the opening must be supported to allow for safe removal of the old steel lintel and installation of a new, longer one.

This is a labour-intensive process that requires careful planning:

• We install temporary shoring to support the weight above

• Remove the existing lintel

• Fit and secure the new lintel in place

• Rebuild the masonry to finish and seal the opening

It’s essential that this is done properly to prevent cracking, sagging, or movement in the wall.

Our Process

1. Assessment and Planning
   We’ll inspect the area, assess structural needs, and plan the best approach—whether it’s an infill, a partial resize, or full expansion.

2. Masonry Removal
   Carefully remove only what’s necessary, minimizing damage to surrounding material. We always work clean and with precision.

3. Rebuilding and Matching
   We install new brick or stone as needed, aiming to blend the new work with the existing as closely as possible. Mortar is matched by type, pigment, and texture—but even then, some variation is normal due to weathering and material age.

4. Curing and Cleaning
   Once the mortar has cured, we perform any needed acid washing to remove glaze or efflorescence from reused brick and give the repair a consistent finish.

5. Final Seal and Finish
   We tool and seal the joints, clean the area, and leave the wall looking as seamless as we can make it—ideally as if no changes were made at all.

Final Thoughts

If you're planning a window or door replacement that involves changes to your brick or stone, it’s best to get a professional mason involved early. We’ll make sure the structure is sound, the wall is weatherproofed, and the finish looks clean and natural. These are highly visible areas of your home, and we want the final result to look like it’s always been there.

Parging is a great way to refresh the look of your home’s foundation while also adding a layer of protection against the elements. Over time, parging can crack, flake, or wear away—especially after a few rough winters. A proper touch-up not only improves appearance but also helps keep moisture from seeping into your foundation.

That said, not all parging issues are cosmetic. Before any work begins, it’s important to make sure there’s no deeper problem hiding underneath.

Step-by-Step Process

1. Cleaning and Inspection
   The first step is always a thorough washing of the exposed foundation wall to remove dirt, loose debris, or peeling material. Once the wall is clean, we inspect for cracks or signs of foundation movement.

   If we spot anything concerning, we’ll bring it to your attention right away. Some cracks may just be surface-level, but others could indicate deeper structural problems. We’ll explain the risks and, if needed, outline the proper repair steps.

2. Mixing the Parge Coat
   We prepare our parging mix using a polymer adhesive additive, which helps the new material bond tightly to the foundation. This is especially important when applying to older surfaces or over previous coats.

3. Application
   Parging is smear-coated in thin, even layers across the exposed section of foundation. Thin coats are the key here—too thick and it can crack or peel as it cures.

4. Finishing
   Once the parge has set to an almost hardened state, we sponge-finish the surface to give it a clean, uniform texture. This also helps smooth out any tooling lines or ridges for a more polished look.

5. Curing and Care
   Parging needs to cure slowly to avoid premature cracking. On warm days or when working in direct sunlight, we lightly mist the surface with water before sponge finishing. This helps slow the cure time and prevents streaking or discoloration in the finish.

Final Thoughts

Touching up your parging might seem like a small job, but it’s one that’s worth doing right. Proper prep, the right mix, and good curing conditions make all the difference between a clean finish that lasts and one that starts flaking off after the first frost.

We take the time to do it properly—and we’ll always let you know if we spot anything that could turn into a bigger issue down the road.

Flagstone walkways and porches are a timeless way to add charm, function, and curb appeal to a home. Whether you're looking for a natural, rustic path through a garden or a crisp, modern look for your front entrance, flagstone offers a versatile solution that works in all kinds of settings.

We install both wet lay and dry lay flagstone—each with their own advantages depending on the site, usage, and overall design goals. No matter the method or layout, we handle the process from start to finish.

Flagstone Options: Random vs. Square Cut

Flagstone comes in varied thicknesses and is available in two main formats:

• Random Flagstone – Irregular, organic shapes for a more natural, rustic appearance

• Square-Cut Flagstone – Precision-cut and sold at a premium; ideal for cleaner, more formal patterns

Both offer unique aesthetics. Choosing the right one depends on the setting, the type of stone used elsewhere on the property, and whether you’re going for a complementary colour or style.

Dry Lay Walkways

A dry lay install means the stones are placed on a compacted sand bed—no concrete or mortar involved. This style is ideal for garden paths, informal walkways, or areas with good drainage.

Dry Lay Process:

1. Excavation – We use a bobcat to remove all topsoil and reach a stable subgrade.

2. Base Prep – Install a layer of screening sand and compact it firmly.

3. Edge Restraint – A secure border is installed and anchored into the ground to hold everything in place.

4. Flag Placement – Random flagstone is carefully placed and cut with a masonry saw as needed. We take the time to level each stone individually and ensure proper slope for water runoff.

5. Joint Fill – Once everything is set, we broom in polymeric sand between the joints. This sand hardens when misted, locking the stones in place and preventing weed growth or washout.

Wet Lay Walkways

Wet lay is more permanent and durable—perfect for high-traffic areas or formal entrances.

Wet Lay Process:

1. Excavation and Base – Same as dry lay: remove topsoil and form the layout.

2. Concrete Base – We pour a rough concrete slab as the foundation.

3. Dry Fit – After the concrete sets and forms are removed, each flagstone is dry-fitted like a puzzle to find the best layout.

4. Setting Stones – Stones are lifted and mortared into place one at a time.

5. Jointing – Once cured, all the joints are filled and tooled to ensure everything is sealed and tight.

6. Control Joints – After about 48 hours, we return to make control cuts in the slab to help prevent cracking from seasonal movement.

Flagstone Porches

When working with concrete porch surfaces, we take a similar approach, but with a few key differences:

1. Surface Cleaning & Prep – The existing concrete surface is cleaned thoroughly and checked for level.

2. Adjusting for Slope – If the surface is not level, we thicken the mortar bed under the stones to create the correct slope for drainage.

3. Laying the Flagstone – Flag is mortared into place, leveled, and jointed just like a wet lay path.

Coping Stones:

It’s common to finish porches with a coping border—a clean edge that frames the stonework and gives it a polished look.

• Usually made of the same or complementary stone

• Comes in 6–8 foot lengths, typically 8–12 inches wide

• Also laid and jointed in mortar, just like the main flagstone field

This border not only adds visual appeal, but also improves durability at the exposed edges.

Maintenance & Finishing Tips

To keep your flagstone walkway or porch looking its best:

• Seal annually to protect from moisture and stains

• Add silica sand to your sealer for a subtle, non-slip texture—especially helpful in wet or icy seasons

• Avoid power washing which can erode mortar and polymeric sand

Final Thoughts

Whether you’re going with a dry lay garden path or a formal, mortared flagstone porch, we’ve got the experience and tools to do the job right. From excavation to layout to jointing, we make sure it looks great—and holds up for the long haul.